My Build of John Bradnam SMD Reflow Hot Plate
Using the Ant PCB Maker I built a couple years back, https://www.youtube.com/@TheAntPCBMaker
I put it to the test of making this small SMD components with a ATTINY3224. You can fine the complete build here: https://www.hackster.io/john-bradnam/smd-reflow-hot-plate-new-version-edc02e What I did diffrent on the third try, I enlarged all the traces and pads to big as i could in KiCad. reason is the V bit will eat away your traces as you can see on the first try (first picture on the right on board on Ant Milling Machine). I used FlatCAM and did one pass @ .1 V bit and multipassing down twice to .07mm
This is second failer, I forgot to mirror the board!
This is the third try ( strike three your out)!
Now to get the parts soldered on.....
Parts layout
Fourth time 2 passes .1 bit
All seems working except for turning on the heat (more trouble shooting) the temp readings or from me using a bic lighter.
Some test points
Still not winning getting the relay to come on when suppose too, seems a loose connection somewhere!
I ordered from JPC the boards before doing the CNC engraving, today they or comming in so I will solder up a board
JLC Made boards Shipping: USD $1.50 Subtotal: USD $2.00 Sales tax: USD $0.16 Grand Total: USD $3.66
Trouble shooting the new JLC made board with the CNC engraved board, I found the bad trace and was able to get the Engraved board working! the trouble with the new board was the 20hz , set it to 16Hz and screen worked fine.
I had some silicone pad from a broken shirt press, I used it for heat insulation.
When I had trouble with New JLC made board with the display, I though maybe the Chip was damaged. I removed it with hot air gun and replaced it. It was soon that I tryed changing the Hz from 20 to 16 that fixed the problem! I remember John Bradnam saying that in his build instrutions. I used the chip as first test with hot plate, using 183 C solder paste, put the chip on this developing board and ran the led blink test on all 10 pins, chip was fine. How i did that was setup a blink code and did a single led with a 220R resistor and used a jumper wire to touch each pin to verify the pin is blinking the Led.
Blink_Test_ATtiny3224_All_Pins_1-10.zip
I used Silicone Thermal Heatsink Plaster to hold thermocouple to middle bottom of heat plate. It does not get hard and hold really well. I had some that I always use for 3d printers to hold heat sink on stepper drivers.
Made a New Toy! to remove single parts
This sound board went bad with a humming, it is used in a talking clock. I removed a good Cap by the mic that I was not using and replaced the burt cap. this fixed the humming and talking Clock is working again.
Video's of me doing this and the files to make the Mini hot plate or in github folder. This uses a Hotend from a 3d printer. I removed the double Heat bar to just one, as it was taking to long to heat the board.
I will update as I get something to show.