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Aka. some practical tips for OHBM2024 and navigating Seoul!
Where does the info come from ? Well I was there back in July 2022, so some information may be a bit outdated; the rest comes from recent Internet exploration!
Assuming you have your flight and hotel booked of course... Let's check some admin (visa & K-ETA), smartphone use and what to pack.
Check with your embassy or the K-ETA webpage whether you need to apply for a visa or a "Korea electronic travel authorisation" or nothing.
If you have a passport from one these 22 countries
Australia, Austria, Belgium, Canada, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, Macao, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Poland, Singapore, Spain, Sweden, Taiwan, UK, US (including Guam)
no need to apply for a K-ETA. You will just have to fill an "entry card" before arriving.
To navigate Seoul's public transport system, see further down, you will absolutely need a smartphone with a dedicated navigation app and a data connection.
There are 3 general options, depending on your smartphone and requirements
- an "electronic SIM", aka. eSIM. If you phone can handle it, you install a virtual SIM in your phone and get local access to Korea's mobile data;
- a physical SIM card. If your phone cannot handle an eSIM but can deal with 2 SIM cards at the same time, then you can also get local access to Korea's mobile network for data;
- a portable WiFi router. This is a pocket size, mobile network data WiFi router.
With the first 2 solutions, you can use your smartphone as you wish and turn it into a WiFi hotspot if needed, for example for your laptop connection. With the latter, you just connect your smartphone, lapstop,.. to your own "in the pocket" WiFi. The amount of data is close to unlimited, unless you plan to stream your favourite Netflix series in UHD!
These can be booked online before arriving in Korea, for example through this Korean Telecom page, but keep in mind that SIM and WiFi router must be picked at the airport!
Cost wise, I just paid ~24€ for a SIM and 10 days of unlimited data.
Forget Google Maps, it does not work in a satisfying way in Korea. Public transport (metro and bus) in Seoul are super efficient, cheap, safe, etc. to get around but navigation is complicated because of its complex and intricate tracks. Plus some metro stations have 10+ exits, possibly 1km away from each other on opposite side of uncrossable 2x4 lanes boulevard...
So you need a precise app to give you the directions to reach your destination and thus you must install one of the korean navigation app. There are 2 main ones:
- Naver Map, available on the Google Play.
- Kakao Map, also available on Google Play.
I have a small preference for Naver but Kakao is supposedly more European-friendly...
Do install and configure these well in advance as you will have to create a specific account to use them and the process is a bit tedious!
Well, weather-wise Seoul in June-July is hot and steamy! Temperature will be around 28-30°C at day and 18-20°C at night. On that you have to account for the humidity which easily adds 2-3 degrees to your perception... Expect also to have gray-cloudy sky but still feel the sun hitting you. Then when it rains, it pours down for a short while.
So plan to dress lightly especially if you plan to walk around outdoor (which you should to enjoy the palaces and temples!). My favourite outdoor tourist dress-code was T-shirt, shorts and sandals but it may not fit for your oral presentation at OHBM. No worries, there will be air conditioning in COEX, as in most other buildigns.
Don't forget a small bag to carry your bottle of water, sunglasses, umbrella, etc. and bring also a light rain jacket and an umbrella.
Seoul is huge and the airport is far out, so first how to get from the airport to the hotel, then getting around the city. Finally what to do, what to see, and what to eat ?
It will take at least one hour, closer to 2, to get to your hotel from the airport! There are various options: taxi, shuttle or public transport.
This blog post about Incheon Terminal 2 could be useful. 😉
There is a direct train to Seoul main train station and several buses to various parts of Seoul. To know which was is suitable for you, you had better have a Korean navigation map and data access... And once in town, you will probably need to connect with another bus or metro line!
I would not recommend unless you know how to move around Seoul, with your luggages. This may be easier on the way back, once you are experienced with the system.
There is a direct bus shuttle, named "airport limousine" , from the airport to the COEX centre (route 6103) and all details are available on this page. Do not bother to try and book you ticket in advance: you need a Korean phone number to register on their website!
So in terminal T2, it's quite easy:
- follow the "bus" signs to the B1 floor, i.e. one floor below that of arrivals,
- find the ticketing machine and buy a ticket for line 6103. It's only 18.000KWON i.e. ~12€, and the machien accepter my credit card;
- then head to bus "line-stops" no 21;
- catch your bus and relax.
Buses are very confortable, with A/C and free Wifi ! If you are staying nearby the COEX, this is probably the best "cheap and convenient" option.
There are of course plenty of taxis to bring you in town, directly to your hotel doorstep. This is probably 3-4 more expensive than the shuttle/bus. Moreover a regular taxi will only be able to accommodate 3 people with their luggage.
Probably the best option if you are not staying nearby the COEX and/or can share the cost among 2-3 people. Note that it's possible to book a taxi in advance (and it'll wait for you!) through web sites such as booking.com.
Seoul is huge but public transport, i.e. bus and metro, is super efficient, clean, safe and also cheap! If you buy a transport card, aka. T-money card, on which you add some money, as an electronic wallet, it's even a bit cheaper and easier.
This is the moment where your Korean navigation app will be most needed: some metro stations have 10+ exits, sprawling 1km underground. So follow your app to get to your destination through the shortest path.
You can buy such T-money card at all(?) metro stations for 3000 KWON, i.e. ~2€ (price from 2022) or in the small conveninec stores such as 7-Eleven and CU. Individual travel tickets, for ~1200KWON (price from 2022), can also be purchased at these machines.
Be aware that back in 2022, the ticket/card vending machines would only accept Korean bank cards or cash... So I had to find a cash point, withdraw a heap of banknotes, and pay in cash!
So many things to do and see in Seoul and around Korea!
There are many things to see in Seoul but here are my highlights:
- temples and palaces. Tickets are really cheap and here are my favourite ones
- Most famous and largest
▶️ Gyeongbokgung Palace, some days/times there are even visits with an English speaking guide. It's here and totally worth it! - The only one open after 5-6pm and it's beautiful at sunset or in the dark
▶️ Changdeokgung Palace. Find it here. - All the others. 😉
- Most famous and largest
- towers will give you a magnificent view over the city. There are 2 of them, go there on a clear day of course
- Namsan Seoul Tower is located in a nice park and gives a stunning 360° view over Han river, and "city centre".
- Lotte World Tower is the highest building in Korea, amazing view of course
- street markets
- some museums
- the National Museum of Korea is fantastic !
- ...
Nearby Seoul you can go to the DMZ area at the border of North Korea. Note that this is an area controlled by the army and that you will have to show your passport to get in, i.e. not everyone get go there.
For some hiking, there is the Seoraksan national park 4-5h bus ride away, on the East cost. Check out the trails.
There are zilions of restaurants, everywhere!, but you should try out food in markets and street vendors. Then you'll be in for the real experience.
Keep this rule in mind: "If it's red it's hot & spicy; if it's not, it might still be!"
Here are some example
- "hot pot alley" in the Namdaemun market, find it here.
- some deep fried or whatever in the Dongdaemun market or on the street
Here is the list of the best rooftop bars!
- The OHBM SEA-SIG blog.
- The OHBM Student & Postdoc SIG blog.