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Hi, @krikk - Thanks for all the info in your guide.
I have flashed 3 DDS238-2 energy meters. For anyone who doesn't have a bench power supply and doesn't want to buy one, but does have access to a 3D printer, this is what I have done/used.
Put pogo pins in each corner of jig as well in RX and IO0 positions so the jig sits on the ESP8266 properly. I used pointed pins as that's what I had, however I think cup end pins would work better.
USB TTL programmer I used is a CP2102, I did try 2 others, that either didn't work or stopped 1/2 way through - lost communication with ESP module, so if you can't get it to flash try a CP2102.
@g6094199, can you tell me what TTL programmer you used, and include a photo of it, just to help others as I am starting to think that different TTL's might supply different mA's. I never tried with just the TTL programmer after the first 2 failed attempts. Thanks
ok i have several shifters but i find this one NOT working in most cases:
(chip: FT232RL) seems to have much to low current.
i´m using this one with success:
(chip: CH340g)
but this specific board doesnt seem not to be available any more. while i'm also not that happy with this pin female header and would prefer a male header in future.
Hi, @krikk - Thanks for all the info in your guide.
I have flashed 3 DDS238-2 energy meters. For anyone who doesn't have a bench power supply and doesn't want to buy one, but does have access to a 3D printer, this is what I have done/used.
Installed Tasmota 11.0.0
Downloaded tasmota.bin - at top of list of downloads
http://ota.tasmota.com/tasmota/release
Used a bread board power supply for the 3,3V DC power.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Breadboard-Supply-Module-DC7-12V-Arduino/dp/B074H5V51V/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=breadboard+power&qid=1648080742&sr=8-17
Can be had off aliexpress for US$1
Wall plug USB power supply needs to be at least 1A. I used a 3A one.
I had 16mm pogo pins already so printed the below jig for it:
16mm pogp pins jig
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4554950
18mm pogo pins jig
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4099748
Put pogo pins in each corner of jig as well in RX and IO0 positions so the jig sits on the ESP8266 properly. I used pointed pins as that's what I had, however I think cup end pins would work better.
USB TTL programmer I used is a CP2102, I did try 2 others, that either didn't work or stopped 1/2 way through - lost communication with ESP module, so if you can't get it to flash try a CP2102.
https://www.amazon.com.au/HiLetgo-Cp2102-Module-Serial-Converter/dp/B00LODGRV8/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=cp2102+usb+ttl&linkCode=gs3&linkId=424feaad13a82d1725a0c33de5bd01fe&qid=1648093094&sr=8-11
Again can be had off aliexpress for around US$1
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