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- I do all the maintenance on my bikes by myself, so I need to be a little creative when it comes to replacing brake and clutch - fluid, as this is usually a two-person job. -For the caliper end of things, I use Stahlbus bleeder valves. They're - far superior to SpeedBleeders, and worth the price. (see discussion below) -For the master cylinder end, I created a cheap brake fluid supply bottle out of a pint Mason canning jar and $30 in computer - water-cooling parts. It has a valve to open and close it. -To hold it in place, I use a small plate with a thumbscrew that screws into the same hole that holds on the master cylinder - lid. -I've used pressure bleeders and other equipment, but this is the simplest and cleanest method I've used so far. -I've used commercial supply bottles, but they're all designed for cars and don't attach well to the master cylinder, and the - valves are usually very poor quality. They end up leaking fluid everywhere, and make more of a mess and hassle than they - save. -Usage-Close the valve, then flip the bottle over. -The thumbscrew simply threads into one of the master cylinder lid screw holes with the standard M4 thread used by all - Japanese bikes - and the Italian and German ones I've run into as well. -Open the valve. As the fluid drops below the barb, air bubbles into the bottle, which releases fluid to raise the level back - up to the bottom of the barb. It's the same principle as Harbor Freight or Mityvac bottles, but it actually works. - |
- Required PC water cooling parts:-I bought mine from Performance PCs so I will use their prices - and part numbers. Except for the ball valve, they're generic parts. -
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- Other required parts:+I do all the maintenance on my bikes by myself, so I need to be a little creative when it comes to replacing + brake and clutch fluid, as this is usually a two-person job. +For the caliper end of things, I use Stahlbus bleeder + valves. They're far superior to SpeedBleeders, and worth the price. (see discussion + below) +For the master cylinder end, I created a cheap brake fluid supply bottle out of a pint Mason canning jar and $30 + in computer water-cooling parts. It has a valve to open and close it. +To hold it in place, I use a small plate with a thumbscrew that screws into the same hole that holds on the + master cylinder lid. +I've used pressure bleeders and other equipment, but this is the simplest and cleanest method I've used so far. +I've used commercial supply bottles, but they're all designed for cars and don't attach well to the master + cylinder, and the valves are usually very poor quality. They end up leaking fluid everywhere, and make more of a + mess and hassle than they save. +Usage+Close the valve, then flip the bottle over. +The thumbscrew simply threads into one of the master cylinder lid screw holes with the standard M4 thread used by + all Japanese bikes - and the Italian and German ones I've run into as well. +Open the valve. As the fluid drops below the barb, air bubbles into the bottle, which releases fluid to raise the + level back up to the bottom of the barb. It's the same principle as Harbor Freight or Mityvac bottles, but it + actually works. +Required PC water cooling parts:+I bought mine from Performance PCs so I will use + their prices as an example. They're generic parts, but Performance PCs has given me excellent service, so they + deserve a mention.
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The problem is when you loosen them to release the check-valves, fluid leaks out and air is sucked in past the + threads where they screw into the caliper.
+You can work around this by smearing grease around the threads or other methods, but it's still a mess.
+With Stahlbus bleeders, the nipple with the check-valve screws into an O-ring sealed chamber, which then screws + solidly into the caliper. No leaks.
+Another advantage of the design is that you can control how loose the valve is, and how easily it passes + fluid. You can even loosen them enough to fill the system through the bleeders.
+