From 8714e35cca6a47ff026fed2d85f97d197bf25123 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: kvvo <145585497+kvvo@users.noreply.github.com> Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2024 07:52:38 -0400 Subject: [PATCH] Add files via upload --- csv/Chapters.csv | 304 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 1 file changed, 304 insertions(+) create mode 100644 csv/Chapters.csv diff --git a/csv/Chapters.csv b/csv/Chapters.csv new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5795c75 --- /dev/null +++ b/csv/Chapters.csv @@ -0,0 +1,304 @@ +Chapter,Location,Start Date,End Date,Latitude,Longitude,Zoom,Marker,Marker Color,Description,Notes,Media Link,Media Credit,Media Credit Link,Overlay,Overlay Transparency,GeoJSON Overlay,GeoJSON Feature Properties +

Scroll down through each day of the expedition to discover more.,,,,44.39527778,-103.4219444,6,Hidden,,

,,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +1 JULY 1874: Ft. Abraham Lincoln,Fort Abraham Lincoln,7/1/1874,7/2/1874,46.76944444,-100.8491667,11,Plain,green,"On the first of July, Custer emerged from his headquarters and issued the order to depart at 8am the next day. This “caused great rejoicing in camp,” especially among the expedition’s “civilian attaches.” Apparently, a new shipment of guns had been slow to arrive, which caused a delay lasting more than one week. To maintain morale among scientists and others who had joined the expedition “on the invitation of the commanding officer, and without pay from the Government,” Custer hosted frequent soirees at his residence in the camp.

+ +According to the New York World, the camp was also stirred up by an impassioned protest from Episcopal Bishop Hare and other so-called “friends of the Indians,” who accused the expedition of being in “direct defiance and violation” of the 1868 Treaty of Fort Laramie. Although the New York World dismissed the controversy as mere “rumors” spread by “disappointed filibusters and sensation mongers,” the newspaper nonetheless acknowledged that it would have been “graceful to notify the Indians of our intention.” Similar sentiments were voiced by Private Theodore Ewert as well, who complained that by ordering an “invasion of the Black Hills,” the United States “forgot its honor,” its “sacred treaty,” and its “integrity.”

+ +Around the same time, a group of Eastern Dakota (Santee) scouts joined the expedition at Fort Lincoln. According to the New York World, this occasioned a large “dance” to cement and celebrate the “alliance” among the expedition’s Native scouts, which also included a number of Arikara warriors.

",,media/1July-FtAbrahamLincoln.png,"Broken glass negative plate showing Ft. Abraham Lincoln by William H. Illingworth, a photographer that Capt. William Ludlow hired to document the expedition. In exchange for photographic supplies and free passage to the Black Hills, Illingworth agreed to provide six complete sets of stereoscopic views. When he refused to provide more than one set, Ludlow pursued the matter in court, but failed to gain a conviction. Source: Ludlow Report, in Report of a reconnaissance of the Black hills of Dakota, made in the summer of 1874",,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +2 JULY 1874: Buck Creek,Buck Creek,7/2/1874,7/3/1874,46.68055556,-101.0522222,11,Plain,green,"March: 8am to 8:45pm
+Temp Range: 79 to 94F
+Distance Marched: 15.1 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 46.68055556N; 101.0522222W +

At 8am sharp, the expedition left Fort Lincoln under great fanfare. Private Ewert recalled that troops were lined up in four columns with “guidons” flying in the breeze while a band played ""Garry Owen"" and officers “dashed up and down the column with an air of importance.” Anxiously chattering with one another, the troops looked back and saw the wives of officers and enlisted men waving their handkerchiefs in farwell. They let out “three hearty cheers” and began marching southwest along the banks of the Heart River. A cavalry scout named Luther North recalled being surprised by the expedition’s festive mood overall. He wrote in his diary that “this was the first and last expedition that I was ever on in an Indian country that had a band along,” adding that Custer often ordered the musicians to assemble in front of his tent after supper and play for an hour or so.

+ +The large column of men included ten companies of mounted cavalry, three companies of infantry soldiers, about one hundred Native scouts, and a battery of Gatlin guns followed by approximately one hundred and fifty wagons carrying supplies. As they marched over some fifteen miles of rolling prairie, a reporter for the New York World noted several trails which had been “cut deep and stamped hard” by “the extinct buffalo,” whose “bones are everywhere to be found … in little bleached piles.” In addition, the expedition naturalist George Bird Grinell found several invertebrate fossils embedded in “yellowish sandstone” on top of a “lofty bute.”

+ +The first day’s march lasted over twelve hours, and several soldiers passed out from heat exhaustion. According to a correspondent for the Chicago Inter-Ocean, there was also a great deal of anxiety caused by “startling rumors” about an imminent attack from Lakotan warriors who had gathered under Sitting Bull’s leadership to prevent Custer’s men from entering the Black Hills.",Cross-referenced.,media/2July-BuckCreek.png,"Column of Cavalry, Artillery, and Wagons making up the 1874 Black Hills Expedition, photographed by William H. Illingworth. Source: National Archives and Records Administration, Record Group 77: Department of the Army. Office of the Chief of Engineers, National Archives Identifier: 519427",https://catalog.archives.gov/id/519427?objectPage=2,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +3 JULY 1874: Buck Creek,Buck Creek,7/3/1874,7/4/1874,46.590278,-101.145278,11,Plain,green,"March: 8am to 3pm
+Temp Range: 83 to 98½F
+Distance Marched: 14.1 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 46.590278N; 101.145278W

+ +July 3rd brought another difficult day’s march under the hot sun. According to the St. Paul Pioneer, the temperature reached as high as 101 degrees Fahrenheit. Intense beams of sunlight scorched the earth and made stones so hot they “literally blister the hands.” The day was made all the more strenuous by the region’s unforgiving landscape. The geologist Newton H. Winchell described a “broken country” of fairly high altitude underlain by sandstone and strewn over with “foreign boulders.” Other accounts paint a similar picture. In his diary, Private Ewert complained about the scarcity of fresh water and lack of tree cover, claiming that soldiers were “compelled” to carry firewood on horseback for more than two miles back to the camp.

+ +In spite of the harsh climate and difficult terrain, Custer insisted on making the military band put on a show. A correspondent for the Bismarck Tribune wondered who the intended audience of this imposing display might have been. Although “no Indians have yet been seen,” he remarked, the sight of over one thousand soldiers and several hundred horses marching in step to the music “presents a scene decidedly enlivening, and which must strike the Indian, even, with wonder and admiration.”

",Approximate.,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +4 JULY 1874: Dog's Teeth Creek,Dog's Teeth Creek,7/4/1874,7/5/1874,46.401546,-101.326638,11,Plain,green,"March: 5am to 11:30am
+Temp Range: 64 to 102F
+Distance Marched: 14.7 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 46.401546N; 101.326638W

+ +The fourth of July passed without fanfare or celebration. Indeed, it was a “Fourth by no means glorious,” the New York World lamented; characterized by extreme heat, no shade, and gusts of “alkaline dust” that “made our thirst intolerable, eyes sore, and faces blistered despite veils.” With the benefit of hindsight, the hardships that were encountered in the treaty lands also smack of the penchant for celebrating the masculine courage, vigor, and stamina that was required on the so-called “frontier.” Indeed, Aris Donaldson from the St. Paul Pioneer described a rather different scene, stating the expedition passed through a much “better country,” which was “clothed in green by recent and heavy rains,” compared to previous days.

+ +Overall, not much of note happened that day. With one exception. Private Ewert recalled crossing a trail that was cut by Custer’s expedition to the Yellowstone River the previous year. This brought back old memories in the 7th Cavalry’s ranks and “gave the boys a topic for discussion which was kept up 'till late in the night.” How would this year’s expedition compare to the last, they wondered? “Would we meet as many, or more, Indians than last year? Would the expedition be as successful as the one of the Yellowstone? How many would return? Who of our command would remain in the Black Hills?",Approximate.,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +5 JULY 1874: Creek Where the Bear Stays in Winter,Where the Bear Stays in Winter Creek,7/5/1874,7/5/1874,46.415874,-101.579856,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:45am to 1pm
+Temp Range: 59 to 78F
+Distance Marched: 16.9 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 46.415874N; 101.579856W
+

+If the previous day had been uneventful, the fifth of July was even more tedious and routine. The only excitement consisted of two unfortunate accidents. First, there was a teamster who fell from his seat and broke both of his legs when the wheels of his wagon passed over them. Second, a rattlesnake bit a horse at its fetlock joint just above the hoof. The poor animal began dripping with sweat almost immediately and trembled so much that it nearly fell to the ground. Had it not been for the quick intervention of a veterinary doctor, the horse would have almost certainly died.

+ +While it may have been lacking excitement, the day was pleasant for everyone else. According to the St. Paul Pioneer, the expedition passed through as “rich and well-grassed prairie as the very best in any of the States.” Survey geologist Newton Winchell agreed, describing the “country passed through” as “the finest yet seen.” In addition to featuring “a few oaks, and good grass,” it also had “a flowing stream of clear water” that a Lakotan scout named Goose called “Where the Bear Stays in Winter.”",Approximate.,media/5July-WhereBearWinterCreek.png,"Portrait of the Lakotan Scout, Goose, taken by David Barry in 1886. Source: Amon Carter Museum of American Art, Fort Worth, Texas, Earl Alonzo Brininstool Collection, ID No. 

P1967.37",https://www.cartermuseum.org/collection/goose-sioux-indian-scout-p1967376,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +6 JULY 1874: Cannon Ball River,Cannon Ball River,7/6/1874,7/6/1874,46.33111111,-101.7952778,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:50am to 10am
+Temp Range: 60 to 94F
+Distance Marched: 12.9 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 46.3311111N; 101.7952778W +

As they had for the past several days, expedition members arose in the predawn to escape from the heat and complete the day’s march before noon. Several made note of the fine country through which they passed, which was covered by “good grass” and irrigated by several small rivers and streams. It was so fertile that Private Ewert felt certain it “will undoubtedly be settled in course of time.”

+ +In addition to fertile land and abundant game, several members of the expedition recorded chance encounters with the region’s Native inhabitants. Private Ewert, for example, claimed to have met “a party of Sioux Indians.” Despite being “eager” in “their protestations of peace,” Ewert refused to believe they were just hunting. Instead, he felt convinced the small party had been “posted here as a ‘corps of observation’ on the movements of our expedition.” But “as orders had been issued for us to act simply on the defensive, we did not disturb them.”

+ +Writing in the St. Paul Pioneer, Donaldson claimed to have seen a white prayer flag atop a bluff in the distance. When a scout was dispatched to investigate, he returned with a square yard of calico fastened along a cross piece atop a large pole. A plug of tobacco was suspended on either side of the perpendicular cross, which Donaldson interpreted as “an offering to some deity, made doubtless, to secure protection of some kind, and most likely from this expedition.”

+ +Although Winchell, the expedition geologist, recorded a “total absence of fossils,” he did mention that large fragments of petrified wood were scattered across the prairie near Cannon Ball River (whose name derives from the perfectly round boulders strewn along either side of its banks). Besides its “large size,” Donaldson praised the “rare beauty and value” of the region’s petrified wood, explaining that choice specimens “weigh at least one thousand pounds.” Upon examination, Winchell “expressed the belief” that a single fossil might be worth hundreds of dollars to a well-endowed museum.

+ +More exciting still, an antelope sighting caused expedition soldiers to begin firing with wanton abandon. As Donaldson wrote in the St. Paul Pioneer, “a great deal of wild shooting was done and a great deal of Uncle Sam's ammunition was wasted.” When soldiers in charge of a Gatlin gun abandoned their post, their horses spooked and took off for the prairie, accidentally causing the large-caliber guns to discharge in every direction at great risk to the entire company. As punishment, several cavalry soldiers were forced to continue marching on foot, and Custer issued an order that forbade anyone from firing their gun within five hundred yards of the company’s flank.

+ +Finally, several newspaper journalists reported widespread anxiety about the prospect of reaching Slim Butte in the coming days. According to the Chicago Inter-Ocean, local “Indians tell of beautiful scenery, remarkable caves, and rare minerals there.” The expedition's Lakotan scout – Goose – explained that Native people especially revered a cave which could only be entered through a hole in the ground. Inside, there were evil spirits and it was “continually filled with the shrieks and wailings of the tormented damned.” On its walls, Goose continued, “are carved great inscriptions in some unknown language, in letters as long as his arm, which even the medicine men of the Sioux have been unable to interpret.”",Cross-referenced.,media/6July-CannonBallRiver.png,Photograph of Cannon Ball River by William H. Illingworth.,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +7 JULY 1874: Cedar Creek,Cedar Creek,7/7/1874,7/7/1874,46.05555556,-102.1019444,11,Plain,green,"March: 4am to 10pm
+Temp Range: 64 to 84½F
+Distance Marched: 30.4 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 46.05555556N; 102.1019444W

+ +Expedition members awoke at three and marched from four o’clock in the morning until ten o’clock at night on July 7th. Conditions were made even more difficult by the heat, as well as the lack of good drinking water. Apparently, the day’s march lasted so long – about eighteen hours in total, covering some thirty miles – because that was how long it took to find a suitable campsite with fresh water. As Donaldson complained in the St. Paul Pioneer, it did not help matters that “someone’s blunder” caused the entire train to be misled by one mile, forcing everyone to double back and “countermarch that distance over bad road.” The only excitement came in the form of abundant antelope, as well as a number of “Indian trails” that Private Ewert judged to have “been made during the past few days.” Although “no danger is anticipated,” several Native scouts were dispatched to reconnoiter the situation and ascertain whether the expedition was under surveillance.",Cross-referenced.,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +8 JULY 1874: Hidden Wood Creek,Hidden Wood Creek,7/8/1874,7/8/1874,45.95555556,-102.4169444,11,Plain,green,"March: 7am to 4:30pm
+Temp Range: 67 to 82F
+Distance Marched: 19 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 45.95555556N; 102.4169444W +

The previous day’s talk of an imminent attack put expedition soldiers on high alert. When gunshots were heard around three in the morning, they jumped to their arms in eager anticipation of a violent encounter (all the while “inwardly swearing at the Indians for not waiting 'till day and so unceremoniously disturbing our few hours sleep.”) In the end, however, it turned out to be nothing more than a few antelope who paid a dear price for wandering too close to the camp. According to Private Ewert, expedition soldiers were “always mad when told that no Indians [were] around waiting to attack the camp and that they [could] return to their blankets and finish the broken ‘nap.’ Others felt differently, however, and Donaldson scolded the “picket guard whose imagination converted an innocent antelope into a lurking savage.”

+ +The next morning, Goose, a Lakotan scout, led the expedition in the direction of a timbered oasis, which he called “Pa-ha-che-cha-cha, or ‘Hidden Wood.’” This picturesque meadow instilled widespread confidence in Goose’s familiarity with the region. Here, expedition members watched the sun set over the tree-laden hills, “as gorgeously beautiful as any that ever glowed on Indian skies.” Illingworth, seeing this, made it a point to stop for a stereoscopic image of the camp from afar.",Cross-referenced.,media/8July-HiddenwoodCreek.jpg,"Campsite at Hiddenwood Creek, photographed by Wiliam H. Illingworth from the South Dekota State Archives.",,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +9 JULY 1874: Grand River,Grand River,7/9/1874,7/9/1874,45.91611111,-102.7616667,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:45am to 2:30pm
+Temp Range: 46 to 100F
+Distance Marched: 20 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 45.91611111N; 102.7616667W

+ +Heading west towards the Grand River through an arid and hilly landscape, the expedition traversed an imposing terrain “abounding” in colored pebbles. The region’s impressive geology made a particular impression on Donaldson, who described “innumerable” buttes topped by “rocky pinnacles and ledges.” He also reported seeing acres of petrified wood, which included a massive stump that constituted “finest single specimen” encountered so far.

+ +The expedition also crossed a trail connecting the Powder River region to the agencies on the Missouri River. Goose, a Lakotan scout, noted that men hunting near the Powder, Yellowstone, and Musselshell Rivers were in the process of returning to the agencies and would shortly “take fresh ponies [and] more ammunition and will then meet us at the Black Hills,” which Private Ewert found “very encouraging and gratifying.”",Cross-referenced.,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +10 JULY 1874: Near Cave Hills,Near Cave Hills,7/10/1874,7/10/1874,45.96666667,-103.0283333,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:50am to 4pm
+Temp Range: 45 to 83F
+Distance Marched: 24 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 45.966667N; 103.028333W

+ +The tenth of July brought a long day of marching along the north fork of the Grand River. According to the St. Paul Pioneer, the expedition passed over an arid country with low quality soil, whereas William Ludlow, the topographical engineer, noted that “grasshoppers were in immense numbers during these two days.” In his diary, Private Ewert reported seeing sixty lodges of Native people, numbering about fifteen hundred warriors, only twelve miles from the column. “This brought a little life and excitement among the boys,” Ewert recalled, for the “idea of a brush with our red brother was actually welcome news to a great number, and would have been hailed as quite a relief from the dull monotony of the daily marches.”",Cross-referenced.,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +11 JULY 1874: Washun,Cave Hills,7/11/1874,7/12/1874,45.81944444,-103.4461111,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:45am to 1pm
+Temp Range: 56 to 90F
+Distance Marched: 19.7 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 45.819444N; 103.446111W

+ +After much anticipation, the expedition finally reached the sacred caves that Goose had described. Although Native people called it “The place where the cow killed the man,” Custer decided to christen it “Ludlow’s cave,” in honor of the expedition’s topographical engineer. According to Private Ewert, the original name commemorates a young warrior who had chased a buffalo cow and two of her calves to the foot of the cliff in which the cave was located. Finding herself trapped, the buffalo cow suddenly turned and gored the young warrior and his horse, tearing “both into shreds.” Others accounts gave a different name, however. The NY World, for example, described it as “The Place Where the Man was Killed by a Bull.” The Chicago Inter-Ocean claimed that Native people simply called it “Wassum,” or “hole in the ground.” This clearly refers to the Lakotan word “Washun,” which literally translates to “hole in the ground” and is often used to describe the den of a fox, beaver, and other burrowing animals.

+ +With Goose leading the way, a special detachment of soldiers located the cave sometime in the late afternoon. According to the NY Tribune, expedition soldiers were surprised by what they found – but not in a good way: “No chambers, no grottoes, no crystals, no stalactites, no hieroglyphics, nothing but a hole in the wall.” They were so disappointed, in fact, that some even accused Goose of being a “swindle.” But not everyone agreed, and the NY World reported that, in finding the much-talked about cave, “Goose's character as a guide has again been signally endorsed.”

+ +Once inside, soldiers found a large number of petroglyphs, which had been carved into its soft, sandstone walls. Private Ewert, for example, recalled seeing “rude artistic resemblances of trees, plants, animals, insects, implements of war, fowl and fish all promiscuously mixed together, but each separate incision with its own peculiar sign and meaning.” Claiming that all of the “different tribes seem to understand the same style of writing,” he speculated that some of these markings were made by “war parties,” who sought to coordinate their activities with others who visited the cave after them.

+ +In a poignant moment, Goose refused to participate in the desecration of a sacred site. While soldiers crowded inside the cave and carved their names as a “memento of their visit” next to ancient petroglyphs, Goose stood near the entrance in silence. According to the NY World, he “thought he had done sacrilege enough in guiding us to the sacred spot without assisting personally at its profanation.”

+ +The Chicago Inter-Ocean provides further evidence that Goose felt regret upon leading expedition soldiers to such a sacred site. Upon locating the cave’s entrance, he came to a stand-still and, “in his stoical way,” made “an indifferent indication with his hand.” The soldiers immediately leapt from their saddles and dashed for “the mysterious entrance, on the walls of which was spirit-writing and demonography.” While soldiers likened the petroglyphs to childish engravings “on the walls of a country schoolhouse,” Goose responded with “superstitious veneration.” “He stood at the entrance a few moments and looked at them silently, then turned away and never came near the place again.”",Cross-referenced.,media/11July-LudlowsCave.jpg,"Stereoscopic view of the entrance to “Ludlow’s Cave,” taken by Illingworth.",https://mikemedhurst.com/cgi-bin/display_item.asp?1624,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +12 JULY 1874: South of Cave Hills,South of Cave Hills,7/12/1874,7/13/1874,45.722222,-103.486111,11,Plain,green,"March: 5am to 3pm
+Temp Range: 62 to 87F
+Distance Marched: 11 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 45.722222N; 103.486111W

+ +The expedition left the Cave Hills and commenced a difficult march along the Grand River, their path weaving through many hills and ravines. J. B. Power, writing for the St. Paul Press, compared the landscape to the famed “Bad Lands” and noted that it was almost impossible for the wagons to traverse the rugged terrain. For his part, Donaldson complained bitterly about expedition guides whose judgment could not be relied on to find “practicable wagon routes.” Still, they trudged on, moving slowly under the hot sun. The geologists busied themselves with sandrock and lignite, but failed to find any fossils. The day ended early, when expedition soldiers were grateful to find several “good springs” with “the best water since leaving ‘Lincoln.’”",,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +13 JULY 1874: Sage Brush Camp,Sage Brush Camp,7/13/1874,7/13/1874,45.59722222,-103.6347222,11,Plain,green,"March: 5:00 AM to 1:00 PM
+Temp Range: 62 to 90F
+Distance Marched: 15.5 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 45.597222N; 103.634722W

+ +Having reached better terrain, the expedition easily traversed fifteen miles before making camp in the early afternoon. Traveling across dry and alkaline country dotted with cacti, Donaldson lamented the lack of fresh water. Apparently, they only found a few “stagnant pools,” which greatly exacerbated the “dreariness” of the landscape. Meanwhile, Winchell noticed traces of “burnt-out” lignite as they passed through a series of buttes. According to the NY Tribune, expedition soldiers who begrudgingly camped among the cacti and sagebrush did their best to make light of a bad situation, joking that “Indiscretions in the use of slippers around camp were dearly paid for.”

+ +In addition, these days were once again filled with renewed anxiety about encountering the region’s Native inhabitants. Captain McDougall, for example, claimed to see a “small body of Indians” whom he suspected of monitoring their movements, but they left soon after being spotted. General Custer concurred, describing the encounter as the first real indication of the “presence of Indians.” As a result, everyone was on high alert, and expedition soldiers took “great care to prevent surprise or stampede of stock,” although in the end nothing happened.",Cross-referenced.,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +14 JULY 1874: Prospect Valley,Prospect Valley,7/14/1874,7/14/1874,45.48222222,-103.7902778,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:45am - 2pm
+Temp Range: 50 to 78F
+Distance Marched:13 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 45.482222N; 103.790278W

+ +After a grueling march lasting about two weeks and covering nearly two hundred and thirty miles in total, the expedition reached a picturesque valley with good grass and plenty of wood that was situated along a branch of the Little Missouri River. The New York Tribune described what a “great relief” it was to arrive at this place, and everyone “rejoiced” when Custer “wisely” decided to rest there for a day, including “the mules and the horses.” Private Ewert explained that a rest day was especially welcome because “the rank and file” had been ordered to bring just a single change of under-clothes, meaning that each had been worn without washing for a whole week. Another factor that may have contributed to Custer's decision was that mineral prospectors believed the small river was likely to yield gold. As soldiers washed their underwear, the miners dug down as far as the bedrock. Although they failed to strike pay dirt, Custer still named the site “Prospect Valley.”

+ +Expedition geologists had more luck compared to the mineral prospectors. About ten miles from the camp, George Bird Grinell found a Badlands formation called Castle Butte (on account of its resemblance to a medieval castle) that contained several vertebrate fossils. In addition to turtle bones, he also unearthed a large femur that was badly crushed and flattened during the process of fossilization. An article in the NY Tribune speculated that an “aged mammoth, a great deal older than Methusaleh, among his peers quite as respectable, had laid himself down to a final sleep, and, fortunately for us, had left one leg sticking out of the bed.” Although Grinell worked with great care to exhume the large fossil, which measured about four feet in length and almost one foot in diameter, the “many centuries of enforced seclusion” had left it “too weak to endure its sudden exposure, and a large part of it crumbled to pieces.” Although he initially assumed that it belonged to a Mastodon, after comparing the specimen to others collected in the same beds, Grinell eventually concluded that “it was the femur of a dinosaur.”

+ +Smoke signals caused a great deal of excitement in camp as well. A journalist for the NY World saw them emanating from behind the camp: “three smokes, one considerably to the left of the other two, signaling the line of our march and the fact that there are no more of us coming.” In his official dispatch, Custer agreed, interpreting the smoke signals “as carrying information to the main body of our presence and movements.” While some of Native scouts were certain that Sitting Bull planned to “make a stand at the Hills,” Custer reminded everyone that because “I sent pacific messages to all the tribes infesting this region,” it was more likely the smoke signals “may have simply been made to enable the villages to avoid us.” In his diary, Private Ewert marveled that “In the art of smoke signals the redman is a perfect master, and his code of signals is nearly as complete as our own at the signal office at Washington. Every member of the camp is expecting a battle within the next few days as war and warpath are about the only two words talked about.”

+ +Interestingly, a journalist for the NY World commented that while expedition soldiers busied themselves with debates about how to interpret the meaning of smoke signals, Lakotan and Arikaran scouts were preoccupied with a comet they had seen for the past several nights. Convinced that it represented a portentous omen, particularly since “the prophets of the Sioux have been unrelentingly preaching a crusade of extermination against the whites,” they warned that “the spirits of the dead are upon the war-path.”",Cross-referenced.,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +15 JULY 1874: Prospect Valley Camp,Prospect Valley Camp,7/15/1874,7/15/1874,45.48222222,-103.7902778,11,Hidden,green,"Camp Coordinates: 45.482222N; 103.790278W

+ +Staying over in Prospect Valley, expedition members enjoyed a day of rest and recuperation. As Fred W. Power wrote in his diary, nothing much happened “except the pleasure of remaining over all day, which was of itself a treat.” Most of the soldiers used the time off to catch up on chores, and Private Ewert described nearly six hundred men scattered along the creek, “scrubbing and splashing their linen in a genuine washwoman style.” They also wrote home, though Ewert complained that “the allowance for each company was so limited that only a few could send their letters east.” Bloody Knife personally chose two Arikara scouts–Skunk’s Head and Bull’s Neck–to deliver the mail. According to the St. Paul Pioneer, each was equipped with “the best revolvers and carbines,” as well as plenty of ammunition, coffee, and rations for the four-day journey. Instructed to travel only by night, they went off at 8 o’clock that evening to begin their 228-mile trek back to Fort Lincoln.",,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +16 JULY 1874: Border Camp,Border Camp,7/16/1874,7/16/1874,45.295484,-103.932944,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:45am to 8:30pm
+Temp Range: 56 to 82F
+Distance Marched: 30 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 45.295484N; 103.932944W

+ +The expedition broke camp early and marched for nearly sixteen hours straight. During the late morning, several scouts reported seeing small groups of Native people off in the distance. Lieutenant Wallace climbed a nearby hill to get a better view of the threat and saw a handful of people about three miles away. According to the New York Tribune, they appeared to be traveling alongside the expedition, which prompted Custer to issue an order for soldiers to “take additional precautions against a surprise.” As usual, however, nothing transpired, and the expedition continued on uninterrupted.

+ +While the main column moved west towards the Little Missouri, an exploring party broke off to explore a nearby ridge. In addition to the chief engineer, William Ludlow, it included Winchell and George Bird Grinnell, as well as two guides (Goose and Louis Agard) and some newspaper correspondents. Winchell dutifully reported the geological formations they passed, while Goose and Agard identified the group of Natives who appeared to be shadowing the expedition as Lakotan. Making their way to some pine-covered hills, they ascended a broad tableland where the party caught its first clear sight of the Black Hills.

+ +While they were out exploring, Professor Winchell collected some petrified wood, several fossilized turtles, a large ball-and-socket joint, and two large vertebrae with the base of a skull that Grinnell identified as some kind of herbivorous dinosaurs “nearly as large as Hadrosaurus Foulkii.” Grinnell also found a few small Cretaceous fossils, but the small group of scientists soon turned southward to intercept the main column, prompting him to complain that “little was accomplished” by the excursion.

+ +Around three in the afternoon, the exploring party rejoined the main column, which stopped briefly to refuel their horses before reaching the Little Missouri around five o’clock. After resting for a few minutes to fill their water caskets and restock their supply of timber, they turned sharply towards the northwest corner of the Black Hills, where expedition guides expected to find the easiest entrance into the fabled mountain range.",,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +17 JULY 1874: Bad Lands,Bad Lands,7/17/1874,7/17/1874,44.96944444,-104.0441667,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:45 to 2:15pm
+Temp Range: 60 to 84F
+Distance Marched: 17.7 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 44.969444N; 104.044167W

+ +As the expedition column marched south towards the Belle Fourche River, the Black Hills finally came within view. “What a glorious moment,” Private Ewert exclaimed, “black as ink, range upon range, stretching away into the distance and mysterious as ever.” Catching sight of this “supposed New Eldorado” inevitably caused a turn in the conversation towards “filthy lucre.” What if all the rumors about gold turned out to be true? How would they carry their bounty back home? As expedition soldiers talked of emptying their saddle pockets to make room for gold nuggets, they vowed to stake a mineral claim “according to law” and grow rich from the proceeds. Although none of their dreams would come to fruition, “yet at the time they gave us much pleasure,” Ewert recalled.

+ +While soldiers dreamed of striking it rich, journalists made light of the region’s desolate landscape. Aris P. Donaldson, in particular, did not mince words about what a “God forsaken” country it was, insisting that it was “only fit for rattlesnakes and Indians.” Given its arid and infertile soil, which only seemed to support a “scraggly brush plant called by the Indians “‘Grease weed,’” Donaldson encouraged the United States Government “to give the Indians, their assigns, heirs, &c, the country forever.” As if that was not bad enough, the area was “made hateful to our memory by a terrible dust storm, which be-soiled everything in our tents and made life to the occupants utterly miserable,” the New York Tribune reported.

+ +The Badlands north of the Belle Fourche may have been lacking in fertile soil and lush vegetation, but it offered plenty of fossils. In his official report, the expedition Geologist described entering a dense “net-work of ravines and alternating clay hills.” Barren and heavily eroded, most of these “little eminences” were about 25 to 50 feet high, with numerous “limy concretions” that turned out to be “filled with fossils.” George Bird Grinell recalled finding a large quantity of these “limestone concretions,” most of which had been “cracked and broken by exposure to the weather.” However, “when a concretion could be found which had not broken up, the specimens from it were well preserved,” and included numerous species of invertebrates from the “so-called Fort Pierre group.”",,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +18 JULY 1874: Belle Fourche,Belle Fourche,7/18/1874,7/19/1874,44.801389,-104.149167,11,Plain,green,"March: 5am to 4:30pm
+Temp Range: 63 to 93F
+Distance Marched: 17.5 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 44.801389N; 104.149167W

+ +A long march lasting nearly twelve hours brought the expedition to a branch of the Belle Fourche river. Captain Ludlow, chief engineer, described passing over “broken country” before reaching a river about 30 to 50 feet wide and four feet deep with a strong current, which cut through a “well-timbered” valley whose soil was strongly impregnated with iron.

+ +Everyone was elated to escape from the heat of the open prairie. “We had learned to appreciate at every halt on the march the shady side of a horse,” the NY Tribune reported, but “the prospect of having a real, live tree–a tree that would not tread on you just as you had dropped to sleep; a tree that did not need to be picketed, and would not move around to feed; a genuine, legitimate tree… –the prospect was more than silence could bear, and we said, ‘Hallelujah!’”

+ +Not everyone was equally impressed, however. A journalist named Fred W. Power wrote that although the expedition geologist “seems to think that the soil generally is good, very good,” he remained skeptical: “the want of rain will in my opinion prevent the country from ever being of any very great benefit to man, or civilized man.” “The noble Red Man of the West may wander over & gain [a] subsistence by hunting,” Power continued, “but certainly never by cultivation.”

+ +Finally, as the expedition drew close to the Black Hills, Lakotan people continued to make their presence felt. Power, for example, claimed to pass by an “Indian grave made not over 3 days ago,” while Private Ewert saw plumes of smoke rising up “in large dark masses” off in the distance, “no doubt informing incoming tribes that we had invaded the sanctum and now needed punishing.” Ludlow, the chief engineer, also claimed that the expedition’s Native guides refused to offer guidance about the best route into the Black Hills. “They have hitherto supposed we would skirt the hills without seriously attempting an entrance,” he concluded.",,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +19 JULY 1874: Belle Fourche Rest Day,Belle Fourche,7/19/1874,7/20/1874,44.801389,-104.149167,11,Plain,green,"Camp Coordinates: 44.801389N; 104.149167W

+ +Heavy rain fell from dawn until about 4 p.m., forcing the expedition to remain in camp near the Belle Fourche. Hoping to salvage the day, Ludlow and his engineering corps set off on a reconnaissance with Colonel Hart’s company in tow. Their “ambition,” according to the New York Tribune, “always [sought] the highest peaks.” But the most they discovered was an “old time-worn trail,” which had been made by Capt. Raynolds during a previous expedition to the Yellowstone river in 1859. This was not enough to satisfy Donaldson, who complained that the reconnaissance party “returned to camp late in the night, with no other result than that of being wet, weary and hungry.”",,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +20 JULY 1874: South of Hay Creek,South of Hay Creek,7/20/1874,07/21/1874,44.645376,-104.253212,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:45am to 5pm
+Temp Range: 65½ to 78F
+Distance Marched: 18.3
+Camp Coordinates: 44.645376N; 104.253212W

+ +Although it threatened to rain for a second day in a row, the expedition continued its march towards the Black Hills. Crossing the Belle Fourche river, they left Capt. Reynold’s train behind and began a meandering ascent out of the valley. Searching for a route into the mountains, their progress was impeded by the wet, soggy ground, which slowed down the wagons considerably. Around two o’clock, the expedition descended into a gorgeous valley with lush vegetation, high grasses, and a ""delightful"" temperature. Thoroughly pleased, Ludlow was happy to leave the “hot, dry, burned-up landscape north of the Belle Fourche” behind him. Likewise, Donaldson praised the region’s rich soil, while Private Ewert reported that expedition soldiers found it “the finest scene they had ever looked upon.” Illingworth, the expedition photographer, took a stereoscopic photograph of the mountain range that would “give the people in the east an opportunity of also enjoying a look at the noted Black Hills.”",,media/20July-SouthHayCreek.jpg,"Looking east from Hay Creek, photographed by William H. Illingworth.",,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +21 JULY 1874: Red Water Valley,Red Water Valley,7/21/1874,7/22/1874,44.505,-104.2644444,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:45am to 4:30pm
+Temp Range: 50 to 88F
+Distance Marched: 14.3 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 44.505N; 104.264444W

+ +As the expedition marched through the Red Water Valley, everyone seemed to be charmed by its red soil and streams, which were complemented by white bands of gypsum and bright green grass. Donaldson was particularly awed, describing an “immense meadow” with “enough gypsum… to fertilize every acre of land in the United States.” Expedition scientists took care to document the land’s natural richness as well, detailing veins of iron ore, gypsum, magnesia, carbonized lime, as well as red sandstone beds that contained a large number of invertebrate fossils from the Jurassic period.

+ +Traversing the valley’s ravines and cuts proved challenging, however. Private Ewert recalled that “hills arose like walls,” forcing them to come to an abrupt halt. Several scouts were sent to find a better trail, but they did not succeed. This prompted Custer to mount “his little pony, Dandy,” and set off to find a workable route by himself. Eventually, they found their way to a small creek and set up camp for the night. Fed by mountain spring water, the creek was “delightful from its clearness and coldness,” and Ludlow speculated that the region’s “gypsum-veins” must have endowed its water “with highly medicinal properties.” As they came to a rest, Custer gathered the men to show off several “specimens and curiosities” he had collected, including petrified wood, prairie owls, a hawk, a porcupine, horned toads and three live rattlesnakes. The day ended with the first death of the expedition. Private John Cuningham of Company H passed on the night of the 21st, succumbing to dysentery.",,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +22 JULY 1874: Inyan Kara Camp,Inyan Kara Camp,7/22/1874,7/23/1874,44.21666667,-104.2658333,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:45am to 4:30pm
+Temp Range: 73 to 91F
+Distance Marched: 22.2 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 44.216667N; 104.265833W

+ +According to Ludlow’s official map, the 22nd of July brought the expedition within just a few miles of the Sundance Hills in what is now Northeastern Wyoming. Curiously, however, neither Ludlow nor anyone else mentioned passing this important landmark, where Lakotan and Cheyenne people have long practiced their sacred ceremonies, in their official accounts.

+ +That morning also saw the second death of the expedition. Apparently, long-simmering animosity between two expedition soldiers–Joseph Turner and William Roller–boiled over and led to an “impromptu duel” before leaving the camp that morning. In the Chicago Inter-Ocean, Curtis wrote that “both had murder in their minds and arms in their hands—only Turner was a little the slower.” When the latter finally died in an ambulance later that day, Roller was placed under arrest to await trial once the expedition had run its course.

+ +Continuing their march up the Red Water Valley, expedition members marveled at the surrounding landscape. Ludlow described a “mass” of gypsum, “crystallized and shining beautifully,” which was marked by deep cuts where “the Indians, for generations, have, in passing, split off pieces for ornaments.”The expedition came across other “Indian signs” also, including a well-marked trail leading southeast towards the Red Cloud and Spotted Tail agencies.

+ +That night, after the expedition reached its camp four miles east of Inyan Kara, a funeral was held for John Cunningham and Joseph Turner on a nearby knoll. The whole company attended, and the band played a funeral dirge as the two bodies were laid to rest.",,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +23 JULY 1874: Inyan Kara Camp,Inyan Kara Camp,7/23/1874,7/24/1874,44.21666667,-104.2658333,11,Plain,green,"Camp Coordinates: 44.216667N; 104.265833W

+ +While most of the expedition spent July 23rd in camp, Custer formed a small party to ascend Inyan Kara. Along with Bear’s Ears, Agard, Colonel Ludlow, and other members of the scientific corps, Custer left camp around 7 o’clock in the morning. Inyan Kara was said to be the highest peak in the western range of the Black Hills; a “prominent landmark” with a height of 6,600 feet. It was a rough trip – even with Bear’s Ears and Agard to guide them, the group struggled to maneuver their wagons and horses through steep hills and ridges. But difficult (“and even dangerous,” Donaldson noted) as it was, the group eventually made it to the summit, where the group carved “74. CUSTER” into the stone, thus marking their presence on this sacred site.

+ +Inyan Kara was beautiful, wooded in pine and aspen with abundant berries. It featured a horseshoe-shaped rim, with an elevated peak in the center and a small spring flowing outwards. From atop Inyan Kara, Custer and Ludlow hoped to scope out a path to the interior of the Black Hills, which remained elusive even to their Native guides. But their plans were frustrated by Lakotan warriors, who set fire to the surrounding prairies. In his official report, Ludlow described that despite waiting for two hours, “the smoke [only grew] denser.” Accepting the poor visibility was unlikely to improve, the small group of explorers turned around and headed back to camp. Custer was clearly disappointed by their lack of success, noting only that “The day was not favorable for obtaining distant views.”

+ +Back in the camp, expedition soldiers were on high alert after a few men claimed to have seen their enemy in the near distance. Upon investigation, however, these reports were discredited. Private Ewert reasoned that soldiers were “anxious to create a sensation in the camp.” Similarly, while Fred W. Power claimed to have seen traces of “several hundred Indians,” they seemed to be heading south-west towards Laramie.",,media/23July-InyanKara.jpg,"The photographer’s shadow in the foreground with Inyan Kara (stone creator) in the background, by William H. Illingworth.",,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +24 JULY 1874: Floral Valley,Floral Valley,7/24/1874,7/25/1874,44.213333,-104.160278,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:45am to 5pm
+Temp Range: 62 to 88F
+Distance Marched: 11 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 44.213333N; 104.160278W

+ +After leaving Inyan Kara, the expedition column traveled east and ascended a slope of white Carboniferous limestone, where they reached a beautiful valley full of lush vegetation. Abundant with wildflowers in full bloom, Custer decided to name their camp “Floral Valley.” He did so in spite of the fact that Winchell, the expedition geologist, recorded a pre-existing Lakotan place-name, Minnelusa (Running Water) Valley, on account of the rapid stream that flowed through it.

+ +Fred Power, writing in the St. Paul Press, corroborated the Valley’s signal importance among Lakotan people. In addition to finding lodge poles, a fresh trail, and other evidence of their frequent presence in the region, he also recorded a Native legend about the water that flowed through its center: “Its source is in a beautiful cave, supplied with all of the luxuries of life, both artificial and natural, fruits of all kinds from every clime, wine the finest, foreign and domestic, on every hand fountains of champagne, walls of purest gold and floors of pearl.” In his diary, Power added that while this “cave has not yet been seen, the Genl. intends starting for it in a few days.” On its other end, the stream “is swallowed by a snake of immense size” which “remains under ground in another cave.”

+ +Expedition soldiers were overcome with joy at the sight of the valley’s abundant wildflowers. According to the Bismarck Tribune, they included “geraniums, asters, the gorgeous lily, the modest daisy, the retiring violet,” and “the coarse gaudy sunflower.” Hence, the Tribune remarked, it was “no wonder” the “untutored savage” guards this “ paradise” with “jealous care.” An army scout named Luther North heartily agreed, stating that he had never “seen such a profuse display of flowers,” which prompted him to reflect on how strange it was “to glance back on the advancing column of cavalry and behold the men with beautiful bouquets in their hands, while the headgear of the horses were decorated with wreaths of flowers fit to crown a queen of May.”

+ +For his part, Private Ewert was equally awed by Valley’s lush and verdant plant-life, which also included strawberries, blueberries, and gooseberries, all of which “abounded plentifully and were really a welcome addition to, or a change from, the coarse army fare.” Still, he hastened to add that “Farmers have no business in the Black Hills,” for its “valleys, even of productive soil, are so narrow that it would require a length of ten miles in order to gain sufficient acres to make a farm.”",,media/24July-FloralValley.jpg,"Floral Valley, photographed by William H. Illingworth.",,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +25 JULY 1874: Minnelusa Valley,Minnelusa Valley,7/25/1874,7/26/1874,44.14305556,-104.0594444,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:45am to 3:15pm
+Temp: 86F
+Distance Marched: 11.5 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 44.143056N; 104.059444W

+ +Marching southwest through Minnelusa Valley and into the Black Hills, expedition soldiers and scientists remained captivated by the natural beauty of their surroundings. “An Eden in the clouds,” Samuel Barrows exclaimed in the NY Tribune, confessing that words could not capture his “pleasure in this lovely scene.” Similarly, Private Ewart could hardly contain himself: “A natural garden! One immense, vast flower bed! A paradise!” he wrote in his diary. Even Ludlow, the matter-of-fact engineer, waxed eloquent about this “beautiful wild country.”

+ +Barrows was so enchanted that all the “greed for gold was forgotten.” But Ewert sang a different song: “Up to this day the Black Hills had been voted a failure,” he wrote, but as soon as they entered this wonderful place, “the miners at once pronounced it as their opinion that this stream, being worked properly, would yield gold.” While that did not turn out to be true, expedition scientists nonetheless collected a rich bounty of specimens. The botanist Aris B. Donaldson was especially “enraptured” by wildflowers, many of which remained “undescribed by botanists,” including “a lily of rarest beauty.” Assuring readers of the St. Paul Pioneer that “Many bulbs have been secured and will be carried home,” Donaldson also related that Custer himself had collected eight pairs of “magnificent antlers,” which he intended to donate to the Smithsonian museum. Finally, several live sand-hill cranes were also captured. These were added to the expedition’s growing “menagerie,” which also included “hares, prairie dogs, night-hawks, owls, one eagle, and a cage of rattlesnakes.”

+ +Not to be outdone, expedition geologists were hard at work collecting fossils and rock samples as well. Judging by several genera of invertebrate fossils that it contained, George Bird Grinnell was certain the gritty, metamorphic limestone which underlay this valley dated back to the Carboniferous age. This led Winchell to conclude that the expedition had discovered a new geological formation, previously unknown to science, which he chose to “​​designate the Minne-lusa Sandstone, from the Indian name of the valley in which it was discovered.”",,media/25July-WagonTrainCastleCreek.jpg,"The wagon train passing through Castle Creek Valley on July 26th, photographed by William H. Illingworth.",,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +26 JULY 1874: Castle Creek Valley,Castle Creek Valley,7/26/1874,7/27/1874,44.029167,-103.8555556,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:45am to 5pm
+Temp Range: 40 to 66F
+Distance Marched: 14
+Camp Coordinates: 44.029167N; 103.855556W

+ +The expedition left Floral Valley early on the 26th, marching through an area marked by beaver dams and limestone ridges that seemed to grow steeper the further they went. Because these limestone formations resembled the turrets of giant castles, Custer decided to name this place Castle Creek Valley.

+ +Roughly 14 miles into their march, they came across a recently inhabited camp. They found smoldering coals and discarded animal bones, as well as fresh tipi poles whose bark had recently been peeled off leaning against the trees. They also found wooden stakes used for drying animal skins driven into the soil. When Bloody Knife spotted a trail of blue smoke in the distance, Custer sent him and two of his “favorite” Arikaran scouts–Black Medicine and Bare Arm--to reconnoiter the situation. Soon, they came galloping back to camp, having seen a Lakotan camp consisting of five tipis just three miles ahead.

+ +Spoiling for a fight, Arikaran scouts quickly spurred into action. They put on war paint, stripped their saddles of unnecessary weight, and loaded their guns in anticipation. The previous winter, a fight with Lakotans at Fort Berthold left several Arikaran warriors dead, prompting Bloody Knife to demand “the right to kill and scalp all in [the] camp.” But Custer refused, saying they could only respond if attacked.

+ +The party of scouts was joined by Custer, a handful of newspaper correspondents, and a company of soldiers, all of whom made their way towards the Lakotan camp. When they arrived, they saw Lakotan women drying meat while children lay around “enjoying their freedom and sunshine.” They also saw several dogs resting in the shade, along with some “nice, fat ponies.” No men could be seen.

+ +Custer sent Louis Agard (a mixed-blood interpreter) to make contact. Agard spoke the Lakotan language, and he carried a white flag. But Custer ordered the rest of his men to surround the camp and prevent “treachery or flight.”

+ +Agard clearly frightened the Lakotan people, perhaps because he carried a gun in addition to a white flag. The two dozen Arikaran warriors that he brought with him could not have helped matters much. The women looked “startled and suspicious,” while their children cried and fled into the woods. The commotion roused Slow Bull, who exited his tipi and raised his gun at the approaching Arikaran warriors, who struck him with their whip. When it became clear that Slow Bull’s gun did not function, he entered his tipi to retrieve a pipe, which he held out to convey peaceful intentions.

+ +Custer took Slow Bull by the hand and the two smoked. Tensions having eased slightly, Slow Bull invited some of the men into his tipi, where he offered water and introduced his wives. One was the daughter of Red Cloud, a noted Oglala headman. She had four children, long black braids, and bright eyes that, according to the Bismarck Tribune, indicated a warm heart.

+ +Before long, the village headman–One Stab–joined them in Slow Bull’s tipi, accompanied by Long Bear. One Stab greeted Custer and said he came from the Red Cloud and Spotted Tail’s agencies, meaning he was Oglala and Sicangu. They smoked the chanupa and One Stab said that because his camp (which numbered 27 people in five tipis) had been out hunting for the past several months, they knew nothing of Custer’s expedition. Custer responded by offering rations in exchange for guidance through the Black Hills, but One Stab demurred. When Custer refused to take no for an answer, One Stab finally “consented” to guide them through “the worst part of the way.” An arrangement was made wherein One Stab, Slow Bull, Long Bear, and one other warrior would join the expedition for a few days that afternoon. While most accounts claim these negotiations were consensual, Private Ewert’s diary described One Stab and his men as hostages. Similarly, an oral history with Strikes Two and Bear’s Belly, two of the Arikaran scouts, also describes them as “prisoners.”

+ +Later that day, One Stab, Slow Bull, Long Bear and a fourth, unnamed Lakotan man arrived at the expedition camp. They were given the promised rations, but “seemed rather uneasy.” Custer ordered a group of soldiers to watch as the Lakotan warriors pitched their tents, which led to commotion. Slow Bull and the unnamed man fled, with Long Bear and One Stab following on horseback shortly thereafter. Custer ordered a party of Santee scouts to go after them. One Santee scout caught up with Long Bear and took his horse by the bridle, pulling him back to the camp. But Long Bear resisted, grabbing the scout’s gun and saying he would “just as soon die today as tomorrow.” The scout fell off of his horse, which allowed Long Bear to flee while the scout fired off several rounds. Blood was later found on the ground, although it was unclear whether this belonged to Long Bear or his horse. In search of the escaped warriors, expedition scouts returned to the Lakotan camp–only to find that it had been packed up and abandoned. This suggests that One Stab and his warriors had visited the expedition to buy time so the women and children could escape to safety.

+ +Of the four men who had fled, only One Stab was re-captured. He was brought back to camp, where he was tied to an “iron picket pin” with his feet “hobbled” and his legs “bandaged.” According to two Arikaran scouts, Custer “made signs” to suggest that he initially planned “to have them kill” the “captive,” but eventually decided to make him work as a “guide.” One Stab responded by saying that more Lakotans were coming “and all would be killed.” Private Ewert also recalled that One Stab was forced to work as a guide, and “he hated himself for doing it.”

+ +When Agard informed One Stab that his people all managed to escape, he was “very much surprised” and the news seemed to enliven his spirits. Still, his own capture weighed heavy on One Stab’s mind. The Arikaran scouts who had been ordered to become One Stab’s “own shadow” recalled how, later that night, he “cried” and “said that his children would cut their hair” for “he was as good as dead.”",,media/26July-CastleCreekValley_SlowBull.jpg,"Slow Bull, photographed by Edward E. Curtis in the early 20th century.",,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +27 JULY 1874: Sioux Camp,Sioux Camp,7/27/1874,7/27/1874,44.029167,-103.855556,11,Plain,green,"Camp Coordinates: 44.029167N; 103.855556W

+ +July 27th was calm and uneventful, but the events of the previous day remained on everyone’s mind. Donaldson was especially eager to find out what happened to Long Bear. Although his fate remained a “mystery,” expedition soldiers did manage to locate his saddle and blanket, all covered in blood, as well as some food and his guncover. Most likely, Long Bear had abandoned everything that might slow him down or impede his escape. Luckily, he succeeded in getting away. Although fifteen soldiers had “scoured the woods,” they could find no trace of his horse nor its rider. “Whatever his misfortune may be,” Donaldson concluded, “it is the result of his own indiscretion and double-dealing.”

+ +Besides the failed search for Long Bear, not much happened that day. Expedition miners busied themselves panning for gold, but returned to camp empty handed. And two companies of soldiers were ordered to help Ludlow reconnoiter the area and take numerous altitude measurements. “We are at present in the heart of the unexplored country,” Fred Power wrote in his diary, and Custer was determined to “give the world a map” while “our friend Illingworth will furnish the finest of views that the country can afford.” Stereoscopic photographs and adventure stories published by newspapers were expected to entice fortune-seekers to the Black Hills, while Ludlow’s topographical map would show them the way to access the region.",,media/27July-CastleCreekHeadquarters.jpg,Expedition Headquarters in Castle Creek Valley. Photographed by William H. Illingworth.,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +28 JULY 1874: Elk Horn Prairie,Elk Horn Prairie,7/28/1874,7/29/1874,44.01444444,-103.8075,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:45am to 2pm
+Distance Marched: 10 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 44.014444N; 103.8075W

+ +The expedition marched about three miles north-east to an open prairie. Finding it impossible to continue, the column marched back in the direction of the previous night’s camp at Castle Creek. According to Fred Power, they had been led astray by “Gen. Custer’s prisoner,” One Stab, who brought them to what Private Ewert described as a country “so broken as to veto any further progress in that direction.” Donaldson had a different understanding, claiming that an “interpreter” had “misunderstood the guide.” Although it is impossible to know for certain, it is tempting to speculate that One Stab may have deliberately led expedition leaders astray, perhaps hoping to frustrate their desire to enter the heart of the Black Hills.

+ +While expedition soldiers waited for the officers to reconnoiter a route out of the prairie, they came across a large pile of Elk horns, which had been bleached by the sun. The expedition naturalist George Bird Grinell offered the most detailed description, writing that “we came upon a collection of horns” which had been “gathered together by the Indians.” “Three lodge-poles had been set up in the ground so as to form a tripod,” he continued, “and supported by these was a pile of horns 8 or 10 feet high.” Writing in the St. Paul Pioneer, Donaldson speculated that it was “doubtless” a “votive offering to some deity.” Private Ewert, on the other hand, felt that the Elk horns “seemed emblematical of the fact that the country ahead would ‘buck’ against our further progress in that direction.”",,media/28July-ElkhornPrarie.jpg,A stack of bleached elk horns arranged along lodge poles. Photographed by William H. Illingworth.,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +29 JULY 1874: Indian Camp,Indian Camp,7/31/1874,8/1/1874,44.01444444,-103.8075,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:45am to 3pm
+Temperature Range: 64 to 82F
+Distance Marched: 15 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 44.01444444N; 103.8075W

+ +The expedition slowly made its way through winding ravines and valleys, still trying to find a way into the heart of the Black Hills. Expedition scouts had been sent to find a passable route, but they failed in their mission (perhaps deliberately). The expedition therefore chose to follow what Fred Power described as an old “Indian trail,” saying that it was “the only way to get out.” But it proved to be a “rough road” that led them down a treacherously narrow ravine. Tasked with clearing the way, Company M removed fallen timber, moved boulders, bridged creeks, and widened the route so wagons could pass. Still toiling away well into the advancing night, they were ordered to bivouac in a little valley three miles from the main camp. Aris Donaldson described eating hardtack and fresh venison under the stars, joking that “to an appetite sharpened by the day's ride… almost anything is good.”",,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +30 JULY 1874: Custer Park,Custer Park,8/1/1874,8/2/1874,44.01444444,-103.8075,11,Plain,green,"March: 7am to 1pm
+Temperature Range: 46 to 93F
+Distance Marched: 10.2
+Camp Coordinates: 44.01444444N; 103.8075W

+Resuming their march at seven o’clock sharp, the expedition passed over scenic prairies and green valleys with abundant deer. As they drew closer to the Black Hills, they noticed ridges glittering in the distance. According to Private Ewert, expedition soldiers debated what might be causing the phenomenon. “Of course speculation was rife,” he noted. “Everyone knew it was something, only they couldn't tell exactly what.” At first, mica was offered as a possibility. Then one soldier piped up, saying that “it looked mightily like silver.” He had apparently heard stories of mountains in Black Hills made of solid silver. Expedition soldiers fantasized about how to carry the silver home on their horses, but once they got a closer look at the ridges, they were disappointed to learn they only contained Eisenglass.

+ +Around noon, the expedition reached a pleasant valley and stopped for a break. One of the miners took his pan to a nearby stream, and returned claiming he had found gold. There was cautious excitement, as the gold was “merely a color, requiring careful manipulation and an experienced eye” to be seen. The miner wrapped these “glittering grains” in paper and tucked them away in his pocketbook as an indication “of what was to come.”

+ +After marching another ten miles, the expedition made camp about five miles from Black Elk Peak, the highest point in the Black Hills. According to Knappen, the site’s beauty was unlike anything he had seen, even surpassing Yosemite, Yellowstone, and Central Park. Illingworth set to work, eager to capture the site’s scenic beauty, which they named “Custer Park.”",,media/30July-CusterPark.jpg,"View of Custer Park, photographed by Illingworth.",,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +31 JULY 1874: Custer Park,Custer Park,8/2/1874,8/3/1874,44.01444444,-103.8075,11,Plain,green,"Camp Coordinates: 44.01444444N; 103.8075W

+The expedition stayed over for a rest day in Custer Park while several small parties went out to survey the region. Prospectors also redoubled their efforts to find gold, with some success. According to the New York Tribune, they found a “good bar, yielding from five to seven cents per pan,” which they considered possibly profitable if the “water was more plentiful.”

+ +Those remaining in camp resupplied their stock, washed their clothes, and mended their riding gear. Meanwhile, Private Ewert described an impromptu game of baseball, the first “ever played in the Black Hills.” That evening, officers gathered under Major Tilford’s tarpaulin for a glass of champagne, and “the entire party became rather ‘boozy’ before ten o'clock p.m.” Illingworth dutifully photographed the moment, while a reporter for the New York Tribune began singing raucously as more bottles were produced that, according to Ewert, were “not filled with water.”

+ +Custer led a small party to ascend Black Elk Peak. He was joined by Captain Ludlow, General Forsyth, Professors Winchell and Donaldson, Mr. Wood, and a cavalry escort. After a difficult ride, they began climbing on foot. Traversing through acres of wild raspberries, they made their way up a cliff. Donaldson described “wedging ourselves into the clefts, and pushing ourselves up after the fashion of chimney sweeps.” Having reached the top and breaking for lunch, they realized that another summit rose above them several miles in the distance. When they reached it, they saw yet another summit, hundreds of feet taller than the second peak, in the distance, which led Ludlow to remark they “had more work to do.” Taking their horses and leaving behind their cavalry escort, they pressed on until they ""finally stood below the peak.” Making one last ascent, they finally reached the highest point in the Black Hills. Looking out, they saw the Cheyenne River, Bear Butte, and beautiful pinnacles rising around them. Before they began their descent, they marked their presence by “driving an emptied copper cartridge-case into a cleft in the granite” containing “therein our names and the day of the month.” They finally returned to camp around one in the morning.

+ +According to subsequent dispatches from Fort Sully, a group of Lakotan people observed the expedition from afar on July 31st. Four runners arrived at the Cheyenne River Agency on August 3rd, relaying that they did not know much about the expedition, were “peacefully disposed,” came to trade at the agency.",,media/31July-DrinkingParty.jpg,"While General Custer explored Black Elk Peak, Major Tilford invited officers to drink champagne. Photographed by William H. Illingworth",,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +1 AUGUST 1874: Permanent Camp,Permanent Camp,8/3/1874,8/4/1874,43.76944444,-103.5505556,11,Plain,green,"March: 7:45am to 9:30am
+Temperature Range: 66 to 70F
+Distance Marched: 3.5 miles
+Camp Coordinates: 43.76944444N; 103.5505556W

+ +The expedition marched a few miles down the valley, skirting the base of the hills until they found a spot with plenty of fresh grass to make camp. The plan was to stay put for several days, giving mineral prospectors plenty of time to look for gold. Two miners named Ross and McKay claimed to find “good colors” (i.e. trace evidence of gold) in the soil along a creek, saying the spot yields “as high as ten cents” a pan. At the same time General Forsyth noted that “the engineers were mapping in all directions.” While the true extent of the region’s mineral resources remained a mystery, hopes ran high that the region would prove profitable for gold, silver, and quartz mining. One newspaper reporter even claimed that Custer’s Valley “bids fair to become the El-Dorado of America.” Meanwhile, General Custer invited the expedition naturalist, George Bird Grinnell, to join a party of cavalry headed towards the Cheyenne River the following morning. This would allow him to expand his collections. Grinnell happily accepted.",,media/1August-PermanentCamp.jpg,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +2 AUGUST 1874: Permanent Camp,Permanent Camp,8/4/1874,8/5/1874,43.76944444,-103.5505556,11,Plain,green,"Camp Coordinates: 43.76944444N; 103.5505556W

+ +Although mineral prospectors claimed they found small specks of gold (“color”) many times already, it was Arikaran Scouts who led the expedition to the first major gold deposit. It was Red Angry Bear who came across it unexpectedly while visiting a spring. He quickly sent word in the Arikara language for the other scouts to come and collect some so they could use it to trim the bridles of their horses. The others followed, and emerged from the spring with their arms “sparkling with all the golden dust.” Custer had the scouts lead him to the site. Upon verifying their find, he rewarded the Arikara: “You scouts have found this,” he assured them, “and you shall have your share.” The spring was so abundant that Strikes Two and Bear Belly recalled him “[throwing] down gold by the handfuls.” Though some soldiers began digging to enrich themselves, the expedition had little time to dwell on their findings. The land was marked on their maps, so others could return in the future. Unlike the small “grains” that mineral prospectors found before, Colonel Ludlow observed that this gold, when examined under a reading glass, resembled “small pin-heads” with “fine scales of irregular shape.”

+ +As expedition soldiers chatted about gold, General Custer sent a small party to explore the Badlands to the southeast, past the Cheyenne River. The reconnaissance party consisted of two cavalry companies led by Colonel Hart and Major Hale. It also included the expedition geologist, Winchell, and the noted naturalist George Bird Grinnell, who was accompanied by Luther North. They left early that morning, carrying enough rations for three days on their mules. According to Grinnell, they met trouble on their very first day, finding themselves unable to reach the Cheyenne River. “The country proved even worse for traveling than had been anticipated,” he wrote.

+ +Meanwhile, expedition soldiers were busy writing letters back home, which were dispatched the following day. Illingworth was busy too, “fully occupied in securing views of this inimitable scenery.” Donaldson was certain that he would “return with one of the finest collections of photographic art ever offered to the admirers of the sublime and beautiful.”",,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +3 AUGUST 1874: Permanent Camp,Permanent Camp,8/5/1874,8/6/1874,43.76944444,-103.5505556,11,Plain,green,"Camp Coordinates: 43.76944444N; 103.5505556W

+ +At 8 o’clock on August 3rd, a scout named Charley Reynolds was dispatched to Fort Laramie, about 74 miles away, with the expedition’s mail. For the first half of his journey, Reynolds accompanied a reconnaissance party that Custer had organized to explore the south branch of the Cheyenne River. In addition to five companies of cavalry soldiers, it also included General Forsyth, Colonel Grant, and Ludlow, the topographical engineer. After a forty-five mile trek, they camped between Hot Creek and Horsehead Creek.

+ +Meanwhile, another reconnaissance party, which had departed for the Badlands the previous day, faced further difficulties. They were still trying to reach the Cheyenne River, but only made it as far as “Plenty-Spring Creek,” about fifteen miles from their destination. With rations running thin, they were forced to turn back. Winchell and Grinnell, the expedition scientists, were not happy. Although they had found some invertebrate fossils and a few, disarticulated fragments of mammalian rib bone, Grinnell was far from satisfied. Several years later, Grinell complained that his mentor, Othniel Charles Marsh, had far greater success when he visited the same region in November of that year. Bitterly, he noted that Marsh “secured about two tons of vertebrate fossils”–a number far surpassing his own.",,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +4 AUGUST 1874: Permanent Camp,Permanent Camp,8/6/1874,8/7/1874,43.76944444,-103.5505556,11,Plain,green,"Camp Coordinates: 43.76944444N; 103.5505556W

+ +Custer’s reconnaissance party turned back in the direction of the main camp near Black Elk Peak. Soon, they reached the South Fork of the Cheyenne River, which Ludlow found shallow and alkaline, noting that it was “evidently much broader in wet seasons.” Aris Donaldson wrote that the water was so alkaline that it was nearly undrinkable, and “when carried a little while in canteens becomes nauseating.” They followed the river for a few miles and made a sharp turn to the north, heading into the Red Clay Valley. The temperature rose steadily, and they noted dry soil covered in cacti and sagebrush. The unelenting heat took its toll, and everyone “suffered from thirst.” Two horses grew so weak they were abandoned. The grueling day of travel ended when they reached some pines at the edge of the Black Hills. Finding good grass and springs of fresh water, they slept “soundly, sweetly, healthfully beneath the open sky.”

+ +Colonel Hart’s party were headed back towards the main camp as well, and the expedition naturalist, Grinnell, speculated about the geological origins of the Black Hills. Back at camp, mineral prospectors worked from “the first glimmer of light each morning…'till late each evening,” eager to find more traces of gold.",,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 +Come back next week to learn more!,,,,44.39527778,-103.4219444,6,Hidden,,"This is a live, ongoing digital project to trace the 1874 Black Hills expedition through Lakotan treaty lands. We will be adding new content on a week-to-week basis. Come back next week to learn more!

+ +We welcome your thoughts and feedback here. Pilamayayelo!",,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0 \ No newline at end of file