diff --git a/Firmware/CoverUI/YardForce/README.md b/Firmware/CoverUI/YardForce/README.md index f962a6b..9973593 100644 --- a/Firmware/CoverUI/YardForce/README.md +++ b/Firmware/CoverUI/YardForce/README.md @@ -57,7 +57,8 @@ @@ -78,7 +79,6 @@ - ## About The Project @@ -216,11 +216,11 @@ If you've repair-wire like [this](https://de.farnell.com/roadrunner/rrp-a-105/dr - +
-

YardForce SA/SC/NX-Type (10 Buttons, 12 LEDs), RM-ECOW-V1.0.0

 +

YardForce NX80i (10 Buttons, 12 LEDs), SA/SC/NX-Type, RM-ECOW-V1.0.0

 - ![Classic 500](images/IMG_Overview_RM-ECOW-V100.jpg) + ![YardForce NX80i](images/IMG_Overview_RM-ECOW-V100.jpg) ### Hardware Modifications: Buttons (*mandatory*) @@ -253,6 +253,64 @@ You might also simply bridge R44 and R45, but for me it was simpler to move them
+ +
+

YardForce NX100i (18 Buttons, 3 LEDs, 256*64 Pixel LC-Display), SA/SC/NX-Type, RM-EC3-V1.1

 + + ![YardForce NX100i](images/IMG_Overview_RM-ECOW-V1.1.jpg) + +### Hardware Modifications: Buttons (*mandatory*) + +With the stock component placement, Button-Home and Button-Play get routed to the main (black) 16 pin connector (JP5). +But we need them routed to the MCU. + + +[![Mandatory Hardware Modification](images/IMG_PCB_Changes_RM-EC3-V11_Mandatory1.jpg "Open in browser")](images/IMG_PCB_Changes_RM-EC3-V11_Mandatory1.jpg) +[![Mandatory Hardware Modification](images/IMG_PCB_Changes_RM-EC3-V11_Mandatory2.jpg "Open in browser")](images/IMG_PCB_Changes_RM-EC3-V11_Mandatory2.jpg) + +Solder two cables: + +1. S8/D9 front-side, to back-side R35-upper-pin (Play button) +2. S10/D7 front-side, to back-side R27-upper-pin (Home button) + +### Hardware Modification: Emergency Stop Switches (*optional*) + +If you also like to use your two Stock-Stop-Switch cables, and you should, because you need the four OM- Hall-Plugs for the remaining hall-sensors: + +[![Optional Stop Hardware Modification](images/IMG_PCB_Changes_RM-EC3-V11_Stop1.jpg "Open in browser")](images/IMG_PCB_Changes_RM-EC3-V11_Stop1.jpg) +[![Optional Stop Hardware Modification](images/IMG_PCB_Changes_RM-EC3-V11_Stop2.jpg "Open in browser")](images/IMG_PCB_Changes_RM-EC3-V11_Stop2.jpg) + +Solder another two cables: + +1. JP5-Pin14 front-side, to back-side U7-Pin1 +2. JP5-Pin6 front-side, to back-side U7-Pin2 + +### Hardware Modification: Emergency Hall Switches (*optional*) + +If you also like to use your original "4-leg cable for the 4 hall sensors", then you need to solder 4 more cables: + +[![Optional Stop Hardware Modification](images/IMG_PCB_Changes_RM-EC3-V11_Hall1.jpg "Open in browser")](images/IMG_PCB_Changes_RM-EC3-V11_Hall1.jpg) +[![Optional Stop Hardware Modification](images/IMG_PCB_Changes_RM-EC3-V11_Hall2.jpg "Open in browser")](images/IMG_PCB_Changes_RM-EC3-V11_Hall2.jpg) + +Solder four cables: + +1. JP5-Pin15 front-side, to back-side R17-lower-pin +2. JP5-Pin16 front-side, to back-side R18-upper-pin +3. JP5-Pin12 front-side, to back-side R13-right-pin +4. JP5-Pin10 front-side, to back-side R21-right-pin + +> **Warning** +> As you might know, the hall sensors are driven by 5V, whereas the MCU is running at 3.3V. +> All used GPIO ports of this modification, are so called "5V tolerant" ports. +> But there might happen electrical cases like: VREG delay or short on 3.3V line, which could kill the "5V tolerant" pin of your MCU. +> To be on the save side for such odd things happen, I highly advice to remove the 5V pull-up resistor on your Hall-PCB, or move it aside like shown on this picture: + +[![Optional Remove Hall Pull-Up Resistor](images/IMG_PCB_Change_Hall-PullUp.jpg "Open in browser")](images/IMG_PCB_Change_Hall-PullUp.jpg) + + +
+ +

YardForce SA/SC-PRO-Type Rev6 (6 Buttons, 240*160 Dot-Matrix-Display), HS49067, WYPCB319B

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